A Traveller Enraptured By The View

The Reverend Thomas Twining (1735-1804) was born into the illustrious Twining’s Tea family however Thomas had no wish to join the family business and became an English classical scholar. He travelled much and wrote a journal of his travels and these are his words dating from his first visit to Elland in 1776:-

‘You descend to Elland by a hill (Upper Edge) monstrously long, and very steep, which we walked down. The view from this hill was the finest I had seen of the extensive kind, the Calder winding its way through the meadows below the town, high hills covered with thicker, closer, and larger woods (Park Wood) than I saw anywhere else. I thought this was all I had to see, and that nothing would do after it.

After we had put up our horses, and ordered dinner at Elland (Savile Arms), we walked through the town, which is dirty, and promises nothing (a few dwellings clustered around St. Mary’s), to the turnpike road at one end of it (Westgate), when you come suddenly upon the view I told you of, and which is far beyond anything that my scanty travels have shewn me. (The top of Long Wall and looking across the Calder Valley).

You see partly the same objects which you saw from the hill above the town; but everything is nearer, more distinct, compact, and picturesque; and the great beauty of all is, that you look down directly upon it, and it begins from the feet of the spectator; a circumstance out of reach of painting, and only to be found in God’s landscapes! You stand upon the road; over your head are high cliffs, on the top of which is a footpath (Hullen Edge Road); directly under you another road (Saddleworth Road); under that the river winding along through green meadows, with a fall or two that have more effect to the ear than the eye; to the right, on the side you stand on, the Church (St. Mary’s) and town hanging upon the hill, with cottages quite down to the water’s side; the bridge, beyond it the river losing itself among woody hills, the valley opening to a distant view, where you catch a last glimmer of the river before it finally departs.

 To the left the river, after a long winding, loses itself by turning to the right among high hills richly covered with woods, the rock in some places peeping through them. These woods (Elland Wood) extend on the opposite side of the river both ways as far as you can see, only a beautiful green rim of meadow between them and the river. Immediately under the wood is a path that accompanies the river as far as you can see to the left, and must be the most delicious of all walks. Imagine all the living accompaniments to this scene; cattle feeding in the meadows, boys bathing, people on foot and on horseback, above, below, over your head, and under your feet...

And so, farewell Elland; if I forget thee, let my right hand forget her cunning!’

 

            David J. Glanfield - Greater Elland Historical Society